There are many factors to consider when choosing an apple tree for your yard. There is a wide range of colors, flavors, uses (such as baking or cider), pollination requirements, and disease resistance. It can be overwhelming to choose. When choosing an apple variety pay special attention to pollination requirements. Most varieties require two trees for fruit production. We have provided a separate chart on the bloom time of apple varieties to help determine pollination requirements.
Choosing a disease resistant variety reduces the need to spray for disease control, but it does not eliminate the possibility of disease entirely. Cleaning up leaves and other debris will greatly reduce scab and mildew, as will mulching in fall after leaves are raked up. Applying sprays in the dormant season will help to prevent disease as well. Not only do you need to consider what variety you desire, but you also need to choose a root stock that fits your site conditions.
The size of the tree is determined by the variety’s growth habit and the root stock. Root stocks reduce the size of a variety by a percentage of the standard size.
Apple trees do not grow particularly well on their own roots. As a result, apple varieties sold in commerce today have all been grafted onto root stocks which, control the size of the tree. Root stocks are generally classified as follows (tree height in parenthesis): dwarf (8-10′), semi-dwarf (12-15′) and standard (18-25′ or more). The root stock also contributes to disease resistance, hardiness, and anchorage and desired soil type.
Growing Conditions
Full sun is preferable, but if you have to choose between morning and afternoon sun exposure, go for the early hours. Morning sun will help to deter mildew disease
Apple trees need rich, well-drained soil. Adding compost to your soil will help promote growth and fruit production. you must be sure that your tree will be allowed good drainage and avoid planting it in a low spot. If the tree’s roots sit in water, the tree will die. If you are planting your tree in an existing lawn, it is recommended that you remove the grass in a four-foot diameter prior to planting. Do not add fertilizer before planting your trees, however, as it can actually harm the tender young roots.
Planting
1. Dig a hole that is two feet deep and twice the diameter of the tree’s root system. Replace half the soil that you removed.
2. Place the roots into the hole being careful they don’t become twisted among each other. Return the rest of the soil to the hole slowly and firm it down over the roosts. Don’t allow any air pockets to be created.
3. Water thoroughly. Cover the area surrounding the tree with a thick carpet of mulch to help keep the roots moist and suppress weeds. Water the tree regularly, especially in times of drought. Apply a good, balanced fertilizer in early spring.
Apple Pollination
All varieties of apple trees should be cross-pollinated with another apple or crab apple variety. To attain the best fruit set on apple trees, the king blossom (the largest and first one to open) in the flower cluster must be pollinated. Thus, the bloom periods of the pollenizer and the king blossom of the apple tree must overlap.
In backyard plantings, two semi dwarf apple varieties that bloom at the same time should be planted within 50 feet of each other. Two dwarf apple varieties with similar bloom periods should be spaced less than 20 feet apart to ensure the transfer of pollen between trees.
Although some apple varieties, such as Lodi, Liberty, Empire, Winesap, Jonathan, Jonagold, Gala, Golden Delicious, Rome and Granny Smith may be listed as self-fruitful, they will set more fruit on an annual basis if they are cross-pollinated. Additionally, some apple varieties, such as Winesap, Stayman, Mutsu and Jonagold, produce sterile pollen and therefore cannot be used to pollinate other apple varieties.
Harvesting
The apples on your tree will not all ripen at exactly the same time. They will ripen one by one over the course of several weeks. You will know that your apple tree is ready to harvest when the fruit comes away from the tree easily in your hands. To harvest the apples properly simply take an apple firmly in your hand and twist. If the apple does not come away easily, leave it there for a while longer.
General Pruning Care
First year pruning sets the eventual shape of the tree. If your tree is taller than 5-6′ above ground, after its planted, trim it down to that height. Pick out the dominant branch that is the most vertical at the top of the tree. This will be your central leader. Thin out the inward growing branches and any branches which are crossing over each other. Trim off the tips of the larger branches to encourage growth. See the illustration below for a before and after look at the branches.
Any shoots or branches which come from BELOW the “bud union” should always be pruned – now and in the future. Brand new stems that grow out of the ground, from the root systems are called suckers. If you see them, simply cut them off at ground level. When the tree matures, suckering usually diminishes.
If your trees set fruit this first year, pick off some of the immature fruits, spacing them about 8″ apart on the branches. This will encourage proper ripening, and improve vegetative vigor. Fruit thinning in the future is also important for the very same reasons. Less is more. If you don’t thin, you will get many more fruits than the tree can handle, resulting in broken branches and small fruits. So don’t be afraid to thin. The resulting fruits will be fuller and much nicer.
In later years, you should continue to shape your tree. Look at the Mature Apple Form below. This is what you are aiming for. Apple trees are best trained to a central leader (uppermost upright limb). This is the natural way your apple tree will want to grow. You want to establish three or four tiers of branches – called scaffolds. This will keep the tree open so that air and sun can reach the fruit. Pruning will keep your tree vigorous, encourage the establishment of fruit buds and enable you to keep your tree down to a manageable size.
It is generally best to prune apple trees when they are dormant. Summer pruning is helpful to retard growth of the tree. So if the tree is growing very aggressively and getting taller than you like, take it back in July to control this growth.
APPLE PRUNING – BEFORE AND AFTER
MATURE APPLE FORM
Problems
If you notice a severe insect or disease problem with your apple tree, it may be necessary to spray the tree with a fungicide and/or insecticide. Speak with a representative at Port Kells Nurseries to determine the best solution to use.