Figs are one of the highest plant sources of calcium and fiber. Figs can be eaten fresh or dried, and is also used in jam-making.
Growing
Sun: Figs require full sun all day to ripen palatable fruits. Trees become enormous, and will shade out anything growing beneath. The trunk and branches are unusually sensitive to heat and sun damage. Roots are greedy, traveling far beyond the tree canopy. Figs are not a fruit tree for small places. In coastal climates, grow in the warmest location, against a sunny wall. For container grown plants, replace most of the soil in the tub every three years and keep the sides of the tub shaded to prevent overheating in sunlight.
Soil: The fig can be grown on a wide range of soils; light sand, rich loam, heavy clay or limestone, providing there is sufficient depth and drainage. Sandy soil that is medium-dry and contains a good deal of lime is preferred when the crop is intended for drying. Highly acid soils are unsuitable. The pH should be between 6.0 and 6.5.
Irrigation: Young fig trees should be watered regularly until fully established. In dry western climates, water mature trees deeply at least every one or two weeks. Mulch the soil around the trees to conserve moisture. If a tree is not getting enough water, the leaves will turn yellow and drop. Also, drought-stressed trees will not produce fruit and are more susceptible to nematode damage. Recently planted trees are particularly susceptible to water deficits, often runts out, and dies.
Fertilization: Regular fertilizing of figs is usually necessary only for potted trees or when they are grown on sands. Excess nitrogen encourages rank growth at the expense of fruit production, and the fruit that is produced often ripens improperly, if at all. As a general rule, fertilize fig trees if the branches grew less than a foot the previous year. Apply a total of 1/2 – 1 pound of actual nitrogen, divided into three or four applications beginning in late winter or early spring and ending in July.
Planting
Plant figs while they are dormant. Early spring is the best time. Tops of bare-rooted plants should be cut back about one-half of their original length. Tops of container-grown plants with good root systems need not be cut back. Be sure to inspect the root system of container-grown plants to see if they are pot bound. If roots have grown out to the container sides and have curled back, either straighten the roots carefully when planting or cut them back to the point where they turned. If root pruning is needed, be sure to prune the top of the plant back the same as for bare rooted figs. Set plants 3 inches deeper than they were in the nursery.
Do not apply fertilizer at planting time.
Allow the plant to grow un-pruned the first season. Be aware that a fig tree has very shallow roots that will grow out twice the distance from the trunk to the drip line. So planting the fig next to the vegetable garden might not be the best choice.
If your fig tree is exposed to the elements a stake may be needed for the first year to protect the tree from strong rains and wind. Trim off lower branches and any sucker growth which arises from the ground. These stems deplete the fig tree and detract from the overall strength and growth. Before long, your tree should be growing at a foot per year with proper care.
Harvesting
Fig trees usually bear 2 crops a year, the early season fruits being inferior and frequently too acid, and only those of the second, or main, crop of actual value.
Figs must be allowed to ripen fully on the tree before they are picked. They will not ripen if picked when immature. A ripe fruit will be slightly soft and starting to bend at the neck, the fruit will change color and soften and slip easily from the plant. The little hole on the fruit bottom will open slightly. Harvest the fruit gently to avoid bruising. Fresh figs do not keep well and can be stored in the refrigerator for only 2 – 3 days. Some fig varieties are delicious when dried.
Use gloves and long sleeves when harvesting figs to prevent skin irritation from the fig latex.
General Pruning Care
Fruit bearing figs have the potential to bear two separate crops each year. The first is produced on the previous seasons’ growth and begins to develop before dormancy. This crop is known as the breba crop. This crop, if fruitful and productive, is lighter that the late summer crop which is produced on the current seasons’ growth. Be mindful of this as you prune.
Prune by approximately one-half, which will encourage new shoots to develop 8″ to 12″ above the base or ground level. During winter dormancy the first year, choose a few adequately spaced shoots (three or many as eight) which will serve as leaders and remove all others. These leaders will become large, several inches in diameter, so choose those that will not become overcrowded. Fruit is borne primarily on the current season’s growth.
The second year, after the danger of frost has passed in spring, prune for fruit production. Fruit is borne on the current season’s growth. Cut back to a bud or branch that faces toward the outside or the tree or shrub. Do not prune to stubs, a practice which could lead to decay. Make a habit of using sharp pruning tools. Remove all dead wood, broken branches or branches that cross each other or rub against one another. Cut out all suckers unless one or more of the leaders needs to be replaced.
