Port Kells Nurseries has a complete line of grass seed blends for various areas of your yard.
Our grass seed can be purchased by the bag or in bulk.
For success with your seeding. Please follow the instructions for soil preparation at the bottom of this page.
Frequently asked questions about our grass seed.
A: It is a blend of Tall Fescue and Micro-Clover grass seed. This blend is not meant to be used for over seeding, only use on new bare top soil. Keep newly seeded area well watered as the seedlings take root. Once established, this lawn will require regular maintenance, but will stay greener for longer in the summer, and will stand up to foot and pet traffic in areas of full sun to part shade. Micro Clover goes dormant over winter, and may appear to be dead, so the fescue in this blend will keep lawns looking healthy and vibrant.
A: The Over Seeding mix consists of equal parts of 4 different types of Rye grass. Gator, Allstar, Regal and Elka.
*There is no fescue present in the Over Seeding mix.
A: 25% All Star Perennial Rye Grass, 15% Replicator 4N Rye Grass, 10% Elka 3 Perennial Grass, 15% Creeping Red Fescue, 15% Cindy Lou Creeping Red Fescue, and 20% Longfellow II Chewings Fescue.
A: Standard setting for grass seed is 3.
Turf / Sod
We carry locally grown fresh sod.
Each roll measures 2 feet wide x 4 feet long.
Cost $4.99 per roll.
Purchase 20 or more $3.99 a roll.
For success with your sod. Please follow the instructions for the preparation and the laying of sod listed below.
Note: Turf is highly perishable. If you do not plan on installing the turf until the next day, we highly recommend that you unroll it and place it in the shade. If possible, water it. Not doing so could cause it to turn yellow.
You can pick up or have us deliver the sod right to your home. We will also provide you with the use of a lawn roller at no extra charge.
Frequently asked questions about our turf/sod and lawns.
A: It depends if it was harvested from a clay field or a sand field. 90% of the time it’s NOT netted.
A: Our turf is a sun and shade mix.
A: Western Turf.
A: Roughly 30lbs (dry).
A: White grubs are the larvae or infant stage of various beetles that feed on roots of grass. When the roots are damaged, birds and small animals dig up the lawn to get at the grubs.
1-Keep your lawn healthy, fertilize and mulch. Don’t mow too short.
2-Aerate. Beetles prefer compact undisturbed soil to lay their eggs.
Nematodes are a naturally occurring microscopic worm found around the globe. They hunt and feed on soil dwelling insects like grubs. You get approximately 10 million nematodes in an individual package which covers 2000-3000 square feet. Apply them by using a watering can, sprayer with hose attachment or misting. Apply them during low light periods (morning or early evenings are best). If possible you should water your lawn before applying or apply after a light rain for best penetration. Avoid soil temperatures below 10 C / 50 F.
IMPORTANT: There are two periods when grubs can be targeted by nematodes, in the Spring when soil temperatures are above 10 C (often May to early July) and again in the fall before the soil gets too cold (mid-late September to mid October).
4-Apply Diatomaceous Earth.
Diatomaceous Earth is an off white talc-like powder that is fossilized remains of marine phytoplankton. When sprinkled on a bug that has a exoskeleton it comprises their waxy coating. It is best applied in dry conditions (even morning dew can make it ineffective) with a salt shaker or a spray bottle mixed with water. It does not hurt mammals of humans.
IMPORTANT: Diatomaceous Earth kills ALL bugs with an exoskeleton (bed bugs, lady bugs, slugs, bees, spiders fleas, ect). This is not a bait or poison, must be applied to the bug.
5-Change your lawn to a Grub/Beetle resistant grass seed like Tall Fescue, Red Fescue or Micro Clover
Site Preparation and Installation for seed or sod
- Measure off the area and figure the square footage (length x width).
- Rough grade the entire area. This will eliminate any drainage problems on the property. This would include sloping the grade away from building foundations, eliminating or reducing severe slopes and filling low–lying areas. A tractor mounted blade and or box are most often used for rough grading, but if the area is smaller, it can be done with hand tools. Rake and remove any debris.
- Till the area to a depth of at least 5 cm (2 inches) and remove all debris, stone, roots, and weeds – which could possibly interfere with the development of the grass seed.
- Add top soil to achieve a total top soil depth of 10-15cm (4-6 inches), after firming. The topsoil should be a loamy sand, sandy loam, clay loam, sandy clay loam or other soil suitable for the area. To the extent possible, practical, affordable and available, incorporate humus (fully decomposed organic matter) into the topsoil.
- Finish grade the entire site, maintaining the rough grading contours and slopes, with a tractor-mounted box blade on large areas or a heavy duty rake on smaller sites.
- Roll the area with a lawn roller approximately ¾ full of water. This firms and settles the surface and reveals any low spots that should be filled. If time permits, allow the area to settle further with rainfall or by applying irrigation.
- Apply starter fertilizer that is high in phosphate at a rate recommended for that particular product.
- The site is now ready for turf/sod or seed. With this degree of careful and thoughtful soil preparation, the resulting lawn will be absolutely beautiful and require less maintenance, smaller quantities of applied water, fertilizer and pesticides, as it maintains a high degree of density and uniformity and recovers much more rapidly from wear. For years to come, your investment in soil preparations will yield a high return.
Sod Laying Instructions
- Start laying sod in a straight line ensuring each piece is firmly abutted to its neighbor.
- Stagger each new row to ensure the connecting area do not form a straight line.
- Once you have completed laying all the sod, use a lawn roller (we offer a free one day rental) to ensure firm contact between the soil and sod roots.
- Water the lawn regularly and deeply. Daily for new plantings, less often as the sod matures and begins to establish itself.
- Do not mow the lawn for at least 3-4 weeks.
- Apply fertilizer during the growing seasons, fall and spring. Newly established sod can benefit from starter fertilizer.